Situated some 130km north of Montréal,
SAINT-JOVITE-MONT-TREMBLANT is the Laurentians'
oldest and most renowned ski area, focused on the
range's highest peak, Mont Tremblant (960m), so
called because the native population believed it was the
home of spirits that could move the mountain. In 1997,
the company that developed B.C.'s Whistler ski-resort
pumped some $50 million into Mont-Tremblant, and the
resulting European-style ski village has made it a
premier ski destination in Canada. The 92 slopes are for
all levels, with a maximum vertical drop of more than
640m and the longest ski run in Québec. One-day ski
passes cost $49 weekdays and $54 on weekends.
Saint-Jovite is the commercial centre
of the area, while Mont-Tremblant (10km north) is a tiny
village with only the most basic services. In and around
the two are a variety of lodges, including the two most
glamorous in the Laurentians: Club Mont-Tremblant
, by Lac Tremblant at the base of the mountain (tel
1-800/467-8341; $175-240), and Auberge Gray Rocks
, near Saint-Jovite (tel 819/425-2771 or 1-800/567-6767;
$125-175). Less pricey rooms are available at
Hôtel Mont Tremblant , 1900 rue Principale (tel
819/425-3232; $80-100 including breakfast), and the
five-room B&BLe Couvent , 135B rue du
Couvent (tel 819/425-8606 or 1-877/425-8606,
www.bbcanada.com/3388html ; $60-80). For eating
in Saint-Jovite, there's a cheap pub-style restaurant,
Bagatelle Saloon , at 852 rue Ouimet, and a
bargain café, Le Brunch Café , at no. 816, in the
same complex as La Crémerie du Hameau , a
chocolate and sweet-tooth candy store. For dinner,
Chez Roger , 444 St-Georges, offers rich French
cuisine at slightly elevated prices - the three-course
table d'hôte costs around $30. Information is
available from the Saint-Jovite/Mont-Tremblant tourist
office, 305 chemin Brébeuf in Saint-Jovite (daily:
June-Sept 9am-7pm; Oct-May 9am-5pm).
The Parc du Mont Tremblant , a
wilderness area of more than one thousand square
kilometres spreading northwards from the villages, is a
favourite with Québécois. Skiing, snowmobiling and
snowshoeing are winter sports; in summer the park
attracts campers, canoeists, hunters and hikers - in
remote areas you may see bears, deer and moose
. The park's three lakeside campsites must be
reserved in advance (tel 819/688-2281 or 1-877/688-2289;
$15-16.50). There's no public transport, but hitching is
possible.
Nearby:
Nearby, on the shores of Lac des Sables,
is STE-AGATHE-DES-MONTS , a luxurious resort
since the 1850s and the largest town in the Laurentians.
Situated 97km from Montréal and almost entirely quashed
by commercialism, it's a good base for exploring the
less developed towns and the wildlife reserves further
north; there is little to do here.
Ste-Agathe is expensive. The cheapest
accommodation is the dull Motel St-Moritz
, 1580 rue Principale (tel 819/326-3444 or
1-800/567-6752, www.polyinter.com/st-moritz ;
$40-60). Of the three B&Bs , only Au Nid
d'Hirondelles , 1235 des Hirondelles (tel
819/326-5413 or 1-888/826-5413;
www.nidhirondelles.qc.ca ; $60-80) verges on
affordable, and all rooms come with private bath. The
pricier Auberge de la Tour-du-Lac , 173 chemin
Tour du Lac (tel 819/326-4202 or 1-800/622-1735,
www.delatour.qc.ca ; $80-100), is one of the town's
most beautiful historic homes with its pointed roof and
wrapround veranda. The nearest campsite is
Parc des Campeurs (tel 819/324-0482 or
1-800/561-7360; $24), 15km from town (follow signs for "
Camping Ste Agathe" and take exit 53 off Hwy 15),
an enormous place with a beach on Lac des Sables.
Most of Ste-Agathe's restaurants
and bars are on the lakefront, the most attractive
part of town: Del Popolo , at 1 Principale est,
serves Italian, and Chez Girard , at 18
Principale ouest, has reasonably priced, delicious
French cuisine. Sauvagine , 1592 Hwy 329 nord (tel
1-800/787-7172), is a chapel converted into a French
restaurant with rooms upstairs ($60-80/$80-100).
For information , go to 24 rue St-Paul est (late
June to early Sept daily 9am-8pm; early Sept to late
June 9am-5pm); the bus stops across the street.
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